I used to think New Years resolutions were a silly tradition, but this year I’m giving it a shot: 1. Deodorant. 2. New day means new socks. 3. Only spend time on really important stuff. What are your New Years resolutions?
I’m gonna get this girl a farm one day...
About 10 yrs ago i borrowed a kookbox from @thetorpedopeople and caught a few small waves before it was too waterlogged to surf. I’ve been curious about it ever since. Inspired by the tiny surf this summer, I finally found the time to build one myself. I was not disappointed. #kookbox photo by: @morganmaassen
*Goes to Italy once* @snackfarmer
I‘ve never felt so defeated by a surf spot, yet so in love with the place. Teahupoo is incredible from the mountains to the reef and everything in between. The community at the end of the road, the cooperative attitude in the water, I was in love with this place. After being in the lineup for 3 days of swell and slowly building my confidence to the point where I was ready for some medium/large waves, I immediately broke my only step-up board and was left swimming for the day, watching @bourezmichel and @filipetoledo get flawless set waves as I swam under them. The next day, eager for redemption and with the surf a little smaller, I was ready to paddle for anything on my short board, but I broke it on my second wave 😢 It’s an experience Im not sure I’ve had in surfing, being at once so intimidated and humbled by a wave, but at the same time being so drawn to it. Thanks @morganmaassen for making this trip happen, and @barnalicious_ for being so chill about me breaking your 6’6” step up. I’ll have it fixed soon buddy!
What a magical little orb we live on.
The air & water here are as close in temperature as they are in color.